Top 100 Restaurants in the World
April 20 (Bloomberg) — Gordon Ramsayâ€™s flagship London establishment dropped out of the Worldâ€™s 50 Best Restaurants list tonight and kept falling. The three-Michelin-starred venue failed even to make the Top 100 after coming 13th last year.
To add to the woes of the British chef, known for TV shows such as â€œHellâ€™s Kitchenâ€ and â€œKitchen Nightmares,â€ his former friend Marcus Wareingâ€™s new venue came in at No. 52. Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley — on the site of the old Ramsay- owned Petrus — also won the Breakthrough Restaurant award, meaning itâ€™s most likely to enter the Top 50 next year.
El Bulli, Ferran Adriaâ€™s experimental restaurant north of Barcelona, topped the S. Pellegrino Worldâ€™s 50 Best Restaurants and Heston Blumenthalâ€™s Fat Duck came second for the fourth year in a row. Noma, chef Rene Redzepiâ€™s venue in Copenhagen, jumped to third from 10th and also took the Chefsâ€™ Choice award.
Ramsayâ€™s empire spans the world, with establishments in Asia, the U.S., the Middle East, Africa and Europe. In London alone, the chef has eight restaurants, plus Foxtrot Oscar and three pubs. He plans to reopen Petrus and Savoy Grill this year. Ramsay came under fire last week when the Sun reported that a central kitchen supplies dishes in bags to Foxtrot Oscar and the pubs. The highest Ramsay venue in the Top 100 is Maze, at 91.
â€œGordon takes all these sort of surveys with a pinch of salt,â€ according to an e-mailed statement issued by his public- relations company, Sauce Communications. â€œAs always, Gordon regards his thousands of customers as his most valued critics. They are his judge and jury.â€
The top placed U.S. entrant was Thomas Kellerâ€™s Per Se, in New York, which came sixth. The same chefâ€™s French Laundry, which won in 2004, came 12th this time. Other U.S. winners included Alinea (10th), Le Bernardin (15th) and Jean Georges (19th).
Wareing split from Gordon Ramsay Holdings last year. Ramsay kept the name Petrus and Wareing held onto the site at the Berkeley hotel, retaining the business he had spent nine years building.
The awards were announced at the Freemasonsâ€™ Hall in Covent Garden. The Worldâ€™s 50 Best is one of the foremost gatherings of chefs from around the world. Among those planning to attend were Adria, Blumenthal, Daniel Boulud, Joel Robuchon, Tetsuya Wakuda and Wareing. Ramsay wasnâ€™t planning to be there, the organizers said.
Restaurant Gordon Ramsay came second to El Bulli in the inaugural list in 2002, which was dominated by U.K. restaurants, It placed fifth in 2003, eighth in 2004, fifth in 2005, 14th in 2006, 24th in 2007 and then 13th in 2008. The list started life as a way of promoting â€œRestaurant,â€ a U.K. magazine.
The S. Pellegrino Worldâ€™s 50 Best Restaurants Awards and List is organized and compiled by â€œRestaurant,â€ and sponsored by S. Pellegrino. The winners are chosen by a total of 837 food writers, critics and commentators around the world, organized into 26 panels. Each panelist has five votes, of which a maximum of three can go to places in his or her region.
For the first time, I was a member of the U.K. and Ireland panel, chaired by Jay Rayner of the Observer. I voted by post and donâ€™t know who else was on the panel or how they voted.
Noma knocked Pierre Gagnaire from third place. El Celler de Can Roca, in Girona, Spain, was the biggest gainer, jumping 21 places. The other notable change this year is the presence of Asian restaurants in the Top 50. Les Creations de Narisawa, Tokyo, ranked 20th. Iggyâ€™s, in Singapore, which the new â€œMiele Guideâ€ named Asiaâ€™s best restaurant last October, came 45th.
The Fat Duck, which topped the list in 2005 and now comes second each year, was closed for more than two weeks earlier this year after 529 diners reported falling sick. Health officials later said the cause was norovirus Winter Vomiting Disease.
The Top 50:
1 El Bulli, Spain (=) 2 The Fat Duck, U.K. (=) 3 Noma, Denmark (+7) 4 Mugaritz, Spain (=) 5 El Celler de Can Roca, Spain (+21) 6 Per Se, U.S. (=) 7 Bras, France (=) 8 Arzak, Spain (=) 9 Pierre Gagnaire, France (-6) 10 Alinea, U.S. (+11) 11 Lâ€™Astrance, France (=) 12 The French Laundry U.S. (-7) 13 Osteria Francescana, Italy (New Entry) 14 St. John, U.K. (+2) 15 Le Bernardin, U.S. (+5) 16 Restaurant de lâ€™Hotel de Ville, Switzerland (+11) 17 Tetsuyaâ€™s, Australia (-8) 18 Lâ€™Atelier de Joel Robuchon, France (-4) 19 Jean Georges, U.S. (-2) 20 Les Creations de Narisawa, Japan (New Entry) 21 Chez Dominique, Finland (+18) 22 Ristorante Cracco, Italy (+21) 23 Die Schwarzwaldstube, Germany (+12) 24 D.O.M., Brazil (+16) 25 Vendome, Germany (+9) 26 Hof van Cleve, Belgium (+2) 27 Masa, U.S., (Re-entry) 28 Gambero Rosso, Italy (-16) 29 Oud Sluis, Netherlands (+13) 30 Steirereck, Austria (New Entry) 31 Momofuku Ssam Bar, U.S. (New Entry) 32 Oaxen Skaergaardskrog, Sweden (+16) 33 Martin Berasategui, Spain (-4) 34 Nobu U.K. (-4) 35 Mirazur, France (New Entry) 36 Hakkasan, U.K. (-17) 37 Le Quartier Francais, South Africa (+13) 38 La Colombe, South Africa (Re-entry) 39 Asador Etxebarri, Spain (+5) 40 Le Chateaubriand, France (New Entry) 41 Daniel, U.S. (=) 42 Combal Zero, Italy (Re-entry) 43 Le Louis XV, France (-28) 44 Tantris, Germany (+3) 45 Iggyâ€™s, Singapore (New Entry) 46 Quay, Australia (New Entry) 47 Les Ambassadeurs, France (-2) 48 Dal Pescatore, Italy (-25) 49 Le Calandre, Italy (-13) 50 Mathias Dahlgren, Sweden (New Entry) 51 Zuma, China 52 Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley, U.K. 53 Spondi, Greece 54 Lâ€™Arpege, France 55 Lâ€™Atelier de Joel Robuchon, China 56 Hibiscus, U.K. 57 Aqua, Germany 58 Le Gavroche, U.K. 59 Chez Panisse, U.S. 60 Les Amis, Singapore 61 El Poblet, Spain 62 Maison Pic, France 63 Cafe Pushkin, Russia 64 Le Meurice, France 65 Bukhara, India 66 Varvari, Russia 67 Schauenstein, Germany 68 RyuGin, Japan 69 La Maison Troisgros, France 70 Wasabi, India 71 The River Cafe, U.K. 72 Enoteca Pinchiorri, Italy 73 Le Cinq, France 74 Allegro, Czech Republic 75 Quintessence, Japan 76 Restaurant Dieter Mueller, Germany 77 Geranium, Denmark 78 Caprice, China 79 Jardines, South Africa 80 Amador, Germany 81 Biko, Mexico 82 Lâ€™Atelier de Joel Robuchon U.S 83 Fasano, Brazil 84 Mozaic, Bali 85 Obauer, Austria 86 Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee, France 87 Lâ€™Ambroisie, France 88 Maison Boulud, China 89 De Librije, Netherlands 90 Babbo, U.S. 91 Maze, U.K. 92 Zuma, U.K. 93 Manresa, U.S. 94 Pier, Australia 95 De Karmeliet, Belgium 96 Aubergine, South Africa 97 Bo Innovation, China 98 Rust en Vrede, South Africa 99 Del Posto U.S. 100 Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire, UAE
Figures in brackets indicate change on last year.
(Richard Vines is the chief food critic for Bloomberg News Opinions expressed are his own.)
To contact the writer on the story: Richard Vines in London at email@example.com.
Last Updated: April 20, 2009 15:00 EDT